5 Speed Manual
Transmission Installation - Part 2
The Pilot Bearing
The first thing to install is the pilot bearing. This
bearing is normally a brass insert that the tip of the transmission's input
shaft rides upon.
The folks at Modern Driveline supply a roller bearing to replace the one
piece pilot bearing. It comes pre-greased and ready for installation.
(The pilot bearing comes pre-greased from Modern
Driveline and is a roller bearing design)
Installation of the bearing is easy. The pilot bearing fits
into the center of the crankshaft's rear. Place the bearing into the
center of the rear of crank (only fits into center of crank one way), use a
socket and hammer, and drive the bearing into the rear of the crank until
the ringing noise from driving the bearing changes to a dull 'thunk' noise.
Please note that the bearing will not completely seat within
the crank's center. The bearing's will be higher than flush by
about 1/16".
(Notice the hole in center of crank [left].
With the pilot bearing installed [right])
The Clutch and Flywheel
The first items to install are the flywheel and
clutch. With the flywheel, make sure you are starting with a new part,
or if you are using a used flywheel, have it resurfaced and inspected for
imbalance and cracks.
Please note the box with the flywheel was labeled telling the installer
what type of flywheel it is. Throughout the years Ford used not only
different flywheel balances (28 oz and 50 oz) but different ring gear teeth
counts (157 vs. 164). Make sure you get the right flywheel for your
application!
(The new flywheel, block plate, and flywheel bolts
[left]. Make sure you have the right flywheel! Ring gear tooth count
and flywheel balance are important! [right])
The kit came with a new flywheel, a reconditioned engine block
plate, and new grade 8 fasteners to mount the flywheel to the crank straight
from Ford. The bolts come with sealer applied.
Before mounting the flywheel make sure to clean the friction surface
(part clutch disc will contact) with brake cleaner and a no lint rag or
Brillo pad, and make sure the
surface is completely clean. Do the same after installation as
well, as any grease or dirt can affect the clutch wear over time.
(The six needed flywheel bolts with pre applied
sealer [left]. Some brake cleaner and rags clean the flywheel mating surface
[right])
Now its time to install. Start with the block plate,
making sure the starter hole is on the correct side of engine and the bottom
lip of the plate is curled toward the rear of the car. Mount the plate
on the two aligning pegs in the block. If they are missing, check the
transmission bell housing that was previously removed from the car or
acquire new ones.
After getting the block plate flush with the back of the engine, mount
the flywheel and torque the flywheel bolts to 85 ft/lbs in three stages.
Now for the clutch. I opted for a newer style clutch
assembly, a 10.5" clutch with the more modern design used in late model
Mustangs. Instead of three "fingers" to actuate the clutch disc as on
older 60s style clutches, several are used to give a more uniform engagement
of the clutch, and a more comfortable clutch pedal.
To install the clutch one needs a clutch alignment
tool. This is included in the kit and is simply a plastic splined
piece of plastic about 5 inches long. It fits into the splines of the
clutch disc and tapers to fit into the pilot bearing.
The clutch and clutch disc are all installed at the same time. Fit
the alignment tool into the clutch disc center splined hole with the disc's
"hat" facing toward you and the tools back end facing you as well. The
hat will ultimately face the transmission (rear of car)
Now take the time to clean the clutch friction surface with brake cleaner
to remove the factory rust inhibitive chemicals.
Place the clutch disc in front of the clutch, lift onto flywheel,
aligning the clutch with the mounting pegs and the clutch disc with the
center of the crank using the alignment tool. When the fitting is
complete torque the clutch to flywheel bolts up to but NOT more than 22
ft/lbs.
A good tip is to align the clutch disc and then point one of the spline
grooves in center hole to 12 o'clock. This will make the installation
of the transmission much easier.
The Bell Housing
Now we need to cover up the clutch with the bell housing, but
first let's get some parts installed onto the bell housing.
The clutch arm (or clutch lever) and the throw-out bearing are installed
first. The throw-out bearing fits into the clutch arm and only fits
one way. Make sure that the black metal "fingers" are tight against
the throw-out bearing when you install the bearing and that both are engaged
on the bearing. If the fingers are not fully engaged it makes
transmission installation a lot harder. Now GREASE the inside of the
throw-out bearing with axle grease or synthetic. Make sure to fill in
the ring on the inside surface with grease. Do NOT grease the input
splines of transmission - this is not needed and just adds the possibility
of grease getting on your clutch!
(The throw-out bearing installed on the clutch
arm. Note how the "fingers" on the clutch arm clip the throw-out
bearing into place [upper right].)
With that done it is time to mount the clutch lever onto the bell
housing. This is done at a ball stud mounted inside the bell housing,
and again two metal "fingers" on the clutch arm snap the end of the clutch
arm onto the ball stud. Be SURE the two fingers are fully engaged onto
the ball stud. Failing to do so will make the final transmission
installation very tricky.
(The bell housing, clutch arm, throw-out bearing,
and dust cover [left]. The arm mounts in the bell housing using
similar "fingers" used on throw-out bearing [right])
After these parts have been installed simply bolt the bell housing
over the clutch/flywheel installation.
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